Planning
Each day section below opens with a Trail Info callout summarizing terrain, water, camp, and resupply. If you want the quick version scan those callouts. They're designed to stand alone as a reference. For a condensed list of lessons learned skip to the tips section at the end.
When to go
Peak season (July–August): Refuges staffed and meals served. Beds bookable months in advance. Busy trails, full huts, social atmosphere. Warmest weather but afternoon thunderstorms possible at elevation.
Shoulder season (late September–October, June): Refuges closed or closing. Some maintain open winter rooms (locaux d'hiver) year-round. Carry a tent and full sleep system. Trails nearly empty. Shorter days, colder nights, unpredictable weather. This is when we went.
Winter (November–May): Snow on passes from Col du Bonhomme onward. Crampons, ice axes, and mountaineering experience required. Most access roads close.
Tip
Early October gives you solitude, fall colors, and no booking stress. The trade-off: closed refuges, limited resupply, cold wet mornings, and you carry everything. If you're comfortable wild camping and self-sufficient on food, it's worth it.
Direction and duration
We went counterclockwise (CCW), the standard direction. All signage supports it. You start in France (Les Houches), cross into Italy over Col de la Seigne, enter Switzerland at Grand Col Ferret, and loop back to Chamonix.
Duration: Standard is 10–12 days with refuge stays. We did 8 days with camping and averaged 20 km/day. Fit hikers could compress to 6–7. The terrain is not technical (no scrambling or chains) so pace depends on fitness and pack weight.
Resupply and food
The TMB passes through real towns every 1–3 days so resupply is easier than on most thru-hikes. In peak season you can eat at refuges and barely carry food. In October it's a different story.
Open in October (limited hours): Les Contamines, Courmayeur, La Fouly, Champex-Lac.
Closed or unreliable in October: Les Chapieux, Ferret, Vallorcine, most Les Houches restaurants.
We carried 2–3 days of food at a time and resupplied in Les Contamines, Courmayeur, and La Fouly. Cold soaking or wraps with cured meat and cheese kept things simple and stoveless.
Gear (off-season)
- Sleep system: 3-season tent rated for wind, sleeping bag to -5°C, pad
- Rain gear you trust (you will get wet)
- Warm layers: base, fleece/puffy, wind shell, gloves, hat
- Headlamp + spare batteries (short days mean some dark hiking)
- Trekking poles (essential for steep descents and stream crossings)
- Offline maps with alternates loaded (we carried the standard TMB, UTMB route, and several alternate passes in case conditions forced a detour and that saved us on Day 7)
- 2L water capacity minimum
Here's my full pack list.
Fitness
The TMB has no technical scrambling or chains. It's a walking trail with sustained climbs and descents on well-maintained paths. You need: multi-day backpacking experience, comfort with 1,000–1,500 m gain days, and ability to handle 20+ km days with a full pack. If you can hike 25 km with 1,200 m gain comfortably you'll be fine.
Off-season overview
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Empty trail. We saw one other hiker in 8 days | Refuges closed. No meals, no beds |
| No reservation stress | Must carry tent, full sleep system, all food |
| Fall colors across three countries | Shorter days, some evening headlamp hiking |
| Cooler temps for big climb days | Weather unpredictable: rain, cold, wind |
| Wild camping anywhere | Google Maps hours unreliable for villages |
| Some winter rooms still open (Bonatti) | Some winter rooms are grim (Elena) |
Good to know
Winter rooms (locaux d'hiver) are unheated emergency shelters kept open year-round at some refuges. They offer four walls, a roof, and sometimes mattresses. Bonatti's was warm and comfortable. Elena's was a damp basement with stained mattresses. Don't rely on them being pleasant. Bring your full sleep setup regardless.
Getting There
Transport: We flew into Geneva and took a carpool (BlaBlaCar) to Les Houches. The ride is about 1 hour. Buses and trains also run from Geneva to Chamonix/Les Houches but check schedules carefully in October since frequency drops significantly.
Starting point: Les Houches is the traditional counterclockwise start. There's a grocery store right next to the trailhead for last-minute supplies. Most other shops and restaurants were already closed for the season when we arrived in early October so don't count on anything beyond that one store.
Direction: We went counterclockwise (Les Houches → Col de Voza → Les Contamines → Italy → Switzerland → back to Chamonix). This is the standard direction and all signage supports it.
Day 1: Les Houches to Bionnassay
Trail Info
Terrain: Road walk out of Les Houches then a steep sustained climb to Col de Voza. Well-marked, no technical sections. Good views back toward the Chamonix valley as you gain elevation.
Water: Fill up in Les Houches before leaving. No reliable sources until Les Contamines the next day.
Camp: Flat spots in the forest near Bionnassay, just past Col de Voza. Plenty of trees for wind shelter. The area around Col de Voza also has some flat grassy patches.
Shelter: None open in the off-season on this section.
We started in the afternoon to ease into the trail. The climb to Col de Voza is steep but straightforward and a fair preview of the long climbs that fill the next week.
We camped in the forest as darkness fell.
Day 2: Bionnassay to Les Chapieux
Trail Info
Terrain: Long day with a major climb to Col du Bonhomme (2,329 m / 7,641 ft). Snow on the ground at the pass in October, a few inches, slushy, melting. No microspikes needed when we crossed. No technical scrambling but the descent toward Les Chapieux can be muddy.
Water: Streams on the approach to Col du Bonhomme. Les Contamines (earlier in the day) has public fountains. No reliable sources between the col and Les Chapieux.
Resupply: Les Contamines has a supermarket and bakeries, your first real resupply on the counterclockwise route. In October, hours were limited but shops open during the day.
Camp: Free campsite at Les Chapieux (unattended in the off-season). Flat and grassy. Bathrooms were closed when we passed through.
Bathrooms: Closed at Les Chapieux campsite in October.
The refuge at Col du Bonhomme was closed but we took a break at the top to dry our tents in the sun. Locals had warned about snow at the pass. It was there but melting fast.
At Les Chapieux we met someone on the GR 5 heading south. He turned out to be the only other hiker we saw on the entire TMB.
Day 3: Les Chapieux to Courmayeur
Trail Info
Terrain: Climb to Col de la Seigne (2,516 m / 8,254 ft), the France/Italy border. Exposed and windy. Rain and mud on the descent into Italy. Stream crossings possible on the approach; trekking poles recommended for balance. A second climb over Rifugio Maison Vieille before descending into Courmayeur. Once past Rifugio Elisabetta the path becomes paved road.
Water: River along the valley floor before Col de la Seigne. Rifugio Elisabetta (closed but there may be a tap depending on the season). Courmayeur has everything.
Resupply: Courmayeur is a full-service town: supermarkets, restaurants, outdoor gear shops. This is your biggest resupply between Les Contamines and La Fouly. Stock up for 2–3 days.
Camp: We booked a hotel in Courmayeur for this night. If camping, flat areas exist near Rifugio Elisabetta, though it's exposed.
Bathrooms: Full facilities in Courmayeur.
The climb to Col de la Seigne was cold and windy with rain. The descent into Italy was muddy and running water covered parts of the trail. We stopped at Rifugio Elisabetta below the pass but it was closed so we sprawled out on the grass for our own lunch after that slog of a climb.
Past the refuge the trail follows a road for a while before one last climb back up. From there we got clear views down the valleys the glaciers carved out. They're still dramatic without the ice. The final approach to Courmayeur cuts straight down through a ski area, past lift pylons and graded runs. It's the least appealing stretch of the day but it's short and there's pizza at the bottom.
Tip
Watch for stream crossings on the approach to Col de la Seigne. One of us nearly lost a trekking pole to the current. Cross carefully and use your poles for balance.
Day 4: Courmayeur to Mont de la Saxe
Trail Info
Terrain: Steady climb out of Courmayeur on well-maintained trail. No technical sections. Ridgeline walk with views of the Grandes Jorasses and Mont Blanc massif.
Water: Fill up in Courmayeur. No water sources until the refuges the next day.
Camp: Excellent cowboy camping on the open ridge near Mont de la Saxe. Flat, grassy, protected from wind by the ridge, with unobstructed views of the Mont Blanc massif. One of the best wild camping spots on the entire route.
Resupply: Courmayeur before departure. Stock up on bread, cheese, cured meat for the next 2 days.
We took a rest morning in Courmayeur for a big breakfast, laundry, and gear drying. We didn't start until the afternoon. The short day was intentional. We carried a baguette and a small bottle of wine from town for a trail picnic at Refugio Giorgio Bertone with the Grandes Jorasses glowing in the late sun.
That night we cowboy camped on the open ridge under clear skies. This was the best camp of the trip.
Day 5: Mont de la Saxe to Refugio Elena
Trail Info
Terrain: Rolling trail along the ridgeline toward Grand Col Ferret. Rain made the trail slippery on our day. No scrambling but some exposed sections in wind.
Water: Streams between Bonatti and Elena. Both refuges may have outdoor taps running.
Shelter: Refugio Bonatti has an open winter room, warm, dry, and comfortable. We sheltered here for a few hours during heavy rain. Refugio Elena also has a winter room but it's a damp basement with stained walls and dirty mattresses. Functional but unpleasant.
Camp: Grassy areas near Refugio Bonatti make excellent campsites in good weather. We ended up staying in the Refugio Elena winter room due to persistent rain.
Rain started early and didn't let up. We ducked under the roof of Refugio Bonatti to get out of the weather and then found a staircase around the side that led to the emergency shelter. Inside there were clean beds, blankets, and warmth. We'd packed up in a hurry that morning to beat the rain so an extra hour of sleep here was welcome.
Once the rain eased and we'd warmed through we pushed on to Refugio Elena expecting something similar. The basement winter room there had damp walls and stained mattresses. It was dry and we were soaked so we couldn't complain.
Good to know
Some refuges keep their winter rooms (locaux d'hiver) open year-round. These are unheated but offer four walls, a roof, and sometimes mattresses. Bonatti's was excellent: clean beds, blankets, well-maintained. Elena's was rough. Don't rely on them being comfortable. Bring your full sleep setup.
Day 6: Refugio Elena to Champex-Lac
Trail Info
Terrain: Steep climb to Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m / 8,323 ft), the Italy/Switzerland border. Long valley descent into Switzerland on smooth trail. Flat river path from La Fouly to Champex-Lac, fast walking. Short climb at the end into town.
Water: Streams on the climb to Grand Col Ferret. Public fountains in La Fouly. Champex-Lac has full facilities.
Resupply: Restaurant in Ferret (first Swiss village) was closed in October. La Fouly had an open supermarket and restaurant, key resupply before the final push. Champex-Lac had restaurants and a small shop open.
Bathrooms: Public toilets open in La Fouly. Restaurants in Champex-Lac.
Camp: The official campground near Champex-Lac was closed for the season. We cowboy camped a few km past town near a quiet service road. Not much flat ground, roughest night of sleep on the trail. Find a spot before town or plan to stay in accommodation.
Grand Col Ferret is the border crossing into Switzerland. Steep climb but the clouds lifted as we hit the top and the sun came out. The descent is gentle and fast. We hoped to eat in Ferret but the restaurant was closed so we pushed to La Fouly for an open supermarket and a hot lunch.
The flat river path from La Fouly to Champex-Lac lets you cover ground quickly. We reached town by early evening and had a beer and dinner. Then we hiked past the closed campground to find somewhere to sleep.
Day 7: Champex-Lac to Vallorcine
Trail Info
Terrain: Climb to Alpage de Bovine (closed) then descent to Trient. From Trient, we took the UTMB variant route over the pass to Vallorcine instead of the standard TMB route to Col de Balme (refuge closed). Part of the UTMB variant was blocked by a landslide, passable but with downed trees and rough scrambling.
Water: Streams on the climb to Bovine. Trient has public water. Vallorcine has limited options in the off-season.
Resupply: Vallorcine. Almost everything was closed. Google Maps hours were outdated. One restaurant was technically closed but the owner kindly made us burgers and fries when she saw us waiting outside.
Camp: We stealth-camped at the closed campsite in Vallorcine. Cowboy camped to avoid noise.
Bathrooms: None available between Champex-Lac and Vallorcine.
Good to know
We chose the UTMB variant to Vallorcine instead of the standard Col de Balme route because we'd heard Vallorcine might still have shops and restaurants open. The Col de Balme refuge was closed with no shelter available. In the end Vallorcine was almost entirely shut too but at least we found a restaurant owner willing to cook for us.
Rain started early. At Trient we committed to the UTMB variant toward Vallorcine. A landslide blocked part of the trail. It was passable but slow with downed trees and rough scrambling. We reached town at dinner time soaked and hungry and almost everything was shut for the season.
Tip
Google Maps hours for small Alpine villages are unreliable after September. Don't plan your day around a restaurant being open unless you've called ahead or a local confirms it. We found that nearly every listing showing "open" was actually closed for the season. They simply don't update their hours. Carry enough food to be self-sufficient each day.
Day 8: Vallorcine to Chamonix
Trail Info
Terrain: Road walk from Vallorcine then a climb to the Lac Blanc/les Échelles area (we took this higher route because we'd done the UTMB variant the day before). Stunning glacier views from the high route. Eventually rejoins the standard TMB trail before descending into Chamonix. No technical sections but note you miss the famous metal ladders on the main TMB variant by taking this route.
Water: Vallorcine at the start. Les Deux Aigles restaurant above Chamonix. Chamonix has everything.
Resupply: Chamonix. Full-service mountain town. Restaurants, supermarkets, gear shops, everything.
Camp: Campsite just outside Chamonix was open in October. Worth booking if rain is forecast.
Bathrooms: Les Deux Aigles (restaurant, lunch stop). Chamonix, public facilities available.
The high route above the valley had clear views of the Mont Blanc glaciers and was worth the extra climb. We stopped for lunch at Les Deux Aigles. It sits right above Chamonix looking down into town.
The forecast called for heavy rain that evening so we cut down from Bergerie de Planpraz directly into town rather than continuing the full ridge. We followed the UTMB route into the center, crossed the bridge, and called it done. The campsite outside Chamonix was open and we were glad to have the tent up before the rain started.
The next day we caught a ride back to Geneva, stayed with a friend, and started preparing for the GR20 in Corsica.
Reflections
The TMB in October is a quieter, colder, more self-sufficient version of the trail. No crowds, no refuge bookings, no queues at the passes. You trade convenience for preparation: a solid tent, warm sleeping gear, and enough food to bridge the gaps between open shops.
What stood out most was how the landscape shifted between countries. Italian cowbells turned into Swiss lakes and then French forests, all linked by one well-marked trail. With nobody else out there you notice each change.
I hiked it with Dr. Pepper and Ranger, friends I'd met on the Pacific Crest Trail. They'd ended their thru-hike early because of forest fires and came to Europe to keep the adventure going. Having hiked together before in similar conditions made the off-season logistics much simpler.
In hindsight the TMB felt gentler than the GR20 that followed it: no scrambling, no chains, well-maintained paths, and real towns every day or two. The off-season added its own work: self-sufficiency, weather calls, and the constant question of what's actually open. I wouldn't change much. Carrying the standard route, the UTMB variant, and a few alternates on my navigation app is what gave us the Vallorcine option on Day 7.
Thanks for reading. If you have any questions about hiking the TMB in the shoulder season, get in touch or find me on Instagram: @andrewtpham.
Happy trails!
Tips for Hiking the TMB in the Shoulder Season (Late September–October)
Hiking the TMB in October means closed refuges, empty trails, fall colors, and genuine solitude. Here's what we learned:
1. Bring a tent and a warm sleep system.
Most mountain refuges close by mid-to-late September. We camped every night except one (Courmayeur hotel). Bring a 3-season tent rated for wind and a sleeping bag comfortable to at least -5°C. Some refuges have open winter rooms (Bonatti was great, Elena was grim) but don't rely on them.
Tip
Cowboy camping works well in dry weather and gives you more flexibility on where you stop. Refuges like Mottets and Bonatti have grassy areas nearby that make great campsites even when the buildings are shut.
2. Plan resupply around the towns that stay open.
Open in October (with limited hours): Les Contamines, Courmayeur, La Fouly, Champex-Lac. Closed or unreliable: Les Chapieux, Ferret, Vallorcine, Les Houches restaurants. Carry 2–3 days of food at a time and always refill when you find an open shop.
3. Shorter days mean earlier starts.
Daylight is limited and shrinking. Start by 8 AM if you're doing full stages. A headlamp is essential. You may end up hiking the last hour in the dark.
4. Cold and wet are the default.
Mornings were consistently cold and damp. Gear rarely dried overnight. Higher passes can get snow any time after September (Col du Bonhomme had a few inches when we crossed). Pack warm base layers, insulated jacket, wind shell, gloves, beanie. Don't skimp on your sleep system.
5. Expect total solitude.
We saw one other hiker in 8 days. There's no trail traffic. That's peaceful but it also means no one to ask for directions, no backup if something goes wrong, and no café at the pass. Your group needs to be self-sufficient and confident with navigation.
6. Google Maps hours are fiction.
Most small villages don't update their hours for the off-season. Don't plan your day around a restaurant being open unless you've confirmed by phone or a local told you. Carry enough food to be independent each day.
7. Weather changes fast. Be flexible.
We had clear days, heavy fog, sustained rain, and strong wind, sometimes all in the same day. Check forecasts when you have signal and be willing to adjust plans. Cut a day short, take an alternate route, or push further. Rigidity gets you into trouble in October.
8. Load multiple routes on your nav app.
Having the standard TMB, the UTMB variant, and a few alternate passes all pre-loaded gave us real options when conditions changed. On Day 7 the UTMB variant to Vallorcine saved us from an exposed pass with no shelter. Don't just carry the one official route.
9. Cowboy camping (bivouacking) is underrated.
Nearly half our nights were spent cowboy camping: no tent setup, no teardown, just a sleeping bag under the stars. It also cuts the morning routine down to rolling up a bag and that matters when you're chasing daylight. The ridge at Mont de la Saxe and the grassy areas near refuges like Bonatti were our best nights out. Save the tent for when rain is forecast.