Planning
At a glance
We walked the desert in 45 days from late April to mid-June 2023. We took five zero days (Idyllwild, Big Bear Lake, two in Tehachapi, and Kennedy Meadows South) and a nero in Wrightwood. Most days ran between 15 and 24 miles. The longest was 27.9 miles from Horse Trail Camp along the LA Aqueduct.
Getting to the start
We flew in and took public transit to Campo: the San Diego Trolley and then a bus of about two hours. We spent the night before at CLEEF, a camp near the border that hosts hikers. The details are in the first stretch below.
Weather
2023 followed a big rain and snow year. The desert was green and parts of the trail were overgrown. We had freezing rain on Apache Peak in May. Midday heat was still the thing to plan around: on Day 1 most hikers took a break of an hour or two in the middle of the day. Day 4 was windy and cool and a storm forecast for Day 6 turned out mild. In mid-May San Jacinto still held a foot or more of snow.
Nights were cold so carry warm layers through the whole desert. On cold evenings a hot dinner beat cold-soaked rice and beans.
Water
Plan each day around where the water is instead of a mileage target. On Day 1 we planned 10 miles but found no water near the campsites. We walked 15.4 to Hauser Creek and got there about half a liter short. For a dry camp we carried about two liters each for the evening and morning.
The water sources in each stretch come from Halfmile's PCT waypoints placed at our 2023 mile numbers. That data is several years old and many desert sources are seasonal or caches. Check the current PCT Water Report before each stretch. By that data these are the longest gaps between sources:
| Miles | Gap | Between |
|---|---|---|
| 68.4 to 91.4 | 23.0 mi | Spring on Rodriguez Spur Truck Trail to 3rd gate water cache location |
| 534.9 to 555.6 | 20.7 mi | Faucet near Cottonwood Creek bridge to Tiger Tank and shower |
| 558.2 to 583.3 | 25.1 mi | Oak Creek to Golden Oaks Spring |
| 583.3 to 605.3 | 22.0 mi | Golden Oaks Spring to Cottonwood Creek |
| 617.1 to 639.0 | 21.9 mi | Kelso Valley Road to Yellow Jacket Spring |
I used 4 to 4.5 liters on long carries. The heaviest was six liters out of the Laguna Mountains on Day 4. On Day 9 we filled up from caches and a trail angel's tank. Our bottles and filter are in the overview.
Gear
Everything we carried in 2023 is in the PCT pack list. Here is what worked hard in the desert and what we changed.
- Umbrella. We carried a Six Moon Silver Shadow for shade on the long exposed miles like the 4.5 miles to I-10.
- Microspikes. Snowline Chinsen Lights got us through the snow on San Jacinto and gave us a lot more confidence on the ridges.
- Leukotape. It was all we used for blister care and it's a must.
- Tent. The Durston X-Mid Pro 2P held up through freezing rain on San Jacinto and a rainy evening at Kennedy Meadows South.
- Shoes and insoles. Dust and tight shoes gave Ninette blisters so she took out the insoles and bought a half size bigger in Julian. At about 700 miles we both swapped to new pairs of the same shoes.
- Ground sheet. We cut a gift trash compactor bag into a flat sheet and it did the job until we bought a proper one.
Towns and resupply
| Day | Town | How we used it |
|---|---|---|
| 0 | Campo (CLEEF) | Night before the start |
| 2 | Lake Morena | In and out |
| 3 | Mount Laguna | Night, shower |
| 6 | Julian | In and out, by ride from Scissors Crossing |
| 10 to 11 | Idyllwild | Two nights, zero |
| 19 to 20 | Big Bear Lake | Two nights, zero |
| 26 | Wrightwood | Nero |
| 30 | Acton | In and out |
| 31 | Agua Dulce | In and out |
| 34 | Hikertown | In and out |
| 36 to 38 | Tehachapi | Three nights, two zeros |
| 45 | Kennedy Meadows South | Zero the next day |
We picked up boxes at the Warner Springs post office and at Kennedy Meadows South. The longest food carry was the last stretch: seven days from Tehachapi to Kennedy Meadows South with no town in between.
Trail magic and trail angels
We found trail magic 11 times in the desert, from a kickoff meal at Lake Morena to water at Walker Pass. Trail angels helped us in Julian, at Paradise Valley Cafe, and in Big Bear Lake, Wrightwood, and Tehachapi. One in Tehachapi hosted us for two nights.
If you want to give trail magic in the desert these were the best spots: Cabazon at the I-10 crossing, Blue Ridge Campground before Wrightwood, and Walker Pass.
Campo to Warner Springs
Trail Info
Days: 1 to 7
High point: about 6,050 ft near mile 41.9
Longest water gap: about 23.0 mi
Towns: Lake Morena (in and out) · Mount Laguna · Julian (in and out from Scissors Crossing) · Warner Springs
Trail magic: a kickoff event with a meal at Lake Morena and a meal at the Sunrise Trailhead
What it was like
Note
A closer look. We filmed a video every day of this first week so this stretch goes into more detail than the ones after it. The first week is where most hikers learn the basics: water, heat, feet, and snakes. The later stretches are shorter.
We spent the night before at CLEEF near the border. On the morning of Day 1 we left our packs there and walked to the monument with our coffee for photos and then set off.
We'd planned about 10 miles for the first day. There was no water near the campsites before Hauser Creek so we walked 15.4 miles through a long dry stretch and arrived about half a liter short. We took one 15-minute break in the midday sun while many hikers waited out the heat for an hour or two. I felt it from around mile 12.
Watch out
Watch out. Rattlesnakes were common in the first weeks. We saw two on Day 1. One was by my trekking pole as I pushed through brush. The other was coiled in the middle of the trail and so well camouflaged that Ninette thought it was dead. About seven hikers queued behind us until brushing dust over it with a leafy branch moved it. Watch the trail where it's overgrown and give a coiled snake space even when it doesn't rattle.
Poodle-dog bush also grows along this stretch. Touching it can blister your skin so keep it off your legs, arms, and trekking poles.
Day 2 was an easier 10 miles because Ninette had a blister coming. At Lake Morena we ate breakfast burritos at the malt shop and trail angels at the campground handed out Gatorade and sandwiches. They are a group of hikers who first walked the PCT in 1977 and run a kickoff there. We waited out the heat with them and then walked on to Boulder Oaks.
Ninette's feet gave us trouble all week. Her shoes were a little tight and fine dust worked into her socks. She taped her toes with Leukotape and took out the insoles. In Julian on Day 6 she bought a pair half a size bigger with a wider toe box.
Tip
Shoes. Feet swell over the day and over the weeks and dust in the socks makes blisters worse. If you need to swap shoes early, Julian on Day 6 is where we found a new pair.
Day 3 was 15.7 miles to Mount Laguna. We started around six but the sun slowed us down. We carried about four liters, found water six miles in, soaked our feet, and napped. The last climb enters a pine forest with a mile or two of shade. We got there around four on a Sunday and the trail angels we'd heard about had left an hour before. Day 4 was our first 20-mile day and it was windy and cool. We carried six liters on the long water carry: four for drinking and two for a dry camp.
On Day 6 we walked four miles to Scissors Crossing and got a ride from a trail angel to Julian. We ate free pie and coffee at a bakery. We were back at the crossing around 3 p.m. and climbed about 8 miles to a camp out of the wind before a storm that turned out mild. Two rattlesnakes made it a skittish day: one rattled from a rock beside the trail and the other lay across it and took five minutes to leave.
Day 7 was 24.2 miles to Warner Springs, our longest day so far. It began in rain and ended crossing Warner Springs Meadow and the open pasture beyond. We had it all to ourselves.
Camping
Hauser Creek was already busy when we arrived since there's no water short of it. Boulder Oaks Campground was our Day 2 camp. It's free and has facilities in a green pasture between a small highway and I-8. The boulder camp before Julian on Day 5 was our favorite of the stretch.
| Day | Camp | Mile | Elevation | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Hauser Creek | 15.7 | busy when we arrived | |
| 2 | Boulder Oaks Campground | 26 | 3,185 ft | free, with facilities |
| 3 | Mount Laguna | 41.5 | 5,948 ft | campground, shower |
| 4 | Sunrise Trailhead | 61.5 | 4,741 ft | |
| 5 | Boulder camp before Julian | 73.1 | 3,074 ft | nice camp |
| 6 | About 8 mi past Scissors Crossing | 85.3 | 3,281 ft | out of the wind |
| 7 | Warner Springs | 109.5 | 3,086 ft |
Towns
Getting to Campo. We landed around 12:30 and took public transit the whole way: the San Diego Trolley and then a bus that takes about two hours to Campo. Our driver lives on the PCT and charged the two of us for one ticket. The driver also told us about the border wall as we passed through Tecate, a town the wall splits in two.
CLEEF (night 0) is a camp and equestrian site near the terminus run by a nonprofit. They gave us a dinner briefing on first aid, hydration, and avoiding injuries. In the morning there was a big breakfast of bagels, baked goods, coffee, and tea. We woke to heavy dew and a wet tent.
Lake Morena has a malt shop with breakfast burritos and the campground hosts the kickoff trail angels.
Mount Laguna is a town of about 80 people with a campground and our first shower.
Julian is about 12 miles from Scissors Crossing and a trail angel gave us a ride in. We got free pie and coffee at a bakery and Ninette found new shoes.
Warner Springs has a post office close to the trail where our first resupply box was waiting. Montezuma Valley on the way in has a small store.
Water
The longest gap between water sources on this stretch is about 23.0 miles, from Spring on Rodriguez Spur Truck Trail (mile 68.4) to 3rd gate water cache location (mile 91.4).
Water sources on this stretch (21)
- Mile 1.2: Juvenile Ranch facility, faucet behind sign
- Mile 4.4: Creeklet
- Mile 24.1: Cottonwood Creek Bridge, usually dry
- Mile 25.5: Cottonwood Creek bed
- Mile 36.9: Long Canyon
- Mile 37.8: Long Canyon Creek ford
- Mile 42.1: Burnt Rancheria CG drinking fountain
- Mile 42.6: Desert View Picnic Area, outhouse, water, picnic table
- Mile 48.6: GART faucet, 1/10 mile W of PCT
- Mile 52.6: Pioneer Mail Picnic Area, outhouse
- Mile 62.4: Mason Valley fire tank, 75 yards E of PCT
- Mile 64.8: Seasonal creek crossing Chariot Canyon Rd, shade, 8/10 mile N of the PCT
- Mile 66.3: Chariot Canyon Fire Tank, 1.2 miles N of PCT
- Mile 68.4: Spring on Rodriguez Spur Truck Trail, 1.1 miles NW of PCT, 50 feet uphill from the large rust colored water tank
- Mile 91.4: 3rd gate water cache location, 3/10 mile E of the PCT
- Mile 91.5: Underground cistern, 6/10 mile E of the PCT
- Mile 103.8: Spring-fed cattle trough, 2/10 mile E of PCT
- Mile 104.4: Round concrete trough, 2/10 mile W of PCT
- Mile 106.1: Large metal water tank, two cattle troughs, 2/10 mi S of PCT
- Mile 106.6: Spring-fed metal trough, 3/10 mile N of PCT
- Mile 107.9: Canada Verde
Warner Springs to Idyllwild
Trail Info
Days: 8 to 11
High point: about 5,640 ft near mile 129.6
Longest water gap: about 9.3 mi
Towns: Idyllwild (2 nights, zero), reached from Hwy 74 at Paradise Valley Cafe
Trail magic: two tent stakes in Idyllwild
What it was like
We planned a zero in Warner Springs and changed it. A resupply box was waiting at the post office close to the trail so we picked it up, repacked, and walked on. The plan was about 40 miles in two days to Paradise Valley Cafe and then a zero in Idyllwild. It's a bigger town and a better base for San Jacinto. A storm had put fresh snow on the range and we wanted time in town to decide how to cross it.
Pine Mountain was a nice camp and our worst night of sleep so far. Four hikers arrived late and squeezed into a spot that fit one or two tents and two of them snored. We got two to four hours even with earplugs. We woke inside a cloud with condensation on everything.
The next day was 18.4 miles to Nance Canyon. A trail angel's water tank gave us water in the morning. The stream water later in the day tasted heavily of iron so we cold soaked dinner and drank little. On Day 10 we walked 11 miles to Hwy 74 and Paradise Valley Cafe and hitched to Idyllwild.
Tip
Water. Fill up at the trail angel's tank on Day 9 if it's running and check the current water report before relying on the stream that follows.
Camping
Pine Mountain was the pick: we marked it as a nice camp with views. The sites are small and late arrivals squeeze in.
| Day | Camp | Mile | Elevation | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 8 | Pine Mountain | 122.2 | 5,154 ft | nice camp, views |
| 9 | Nance Canyon | 140.6 | 3,533 ft | |
| 10 | Idyllwild Inn and campground | 151.8 | 5,352 ft | town, shower, 2 nights |
| 11 | Zero in Idyllwild | zero |
Towns
Paradise Valley Cafe sits on Hwy 74 at mile 151.8. It's a well-known stop that's friendly to hikers and known for its burgers. Hikers ship microspikes and ice axes there for San Jacinto and bikers stop by too. From there we hitched to Idyllwild.
Idyllwild is a mountain town for hiking and horse riding and its mayor is a golden retriever named Max. We shared a cabin for five with a few other hikers and did showers and laundry for the first time in 10 days. For the zero we moved to the campground in town because we missed the dirt. A restaurant had a weekly deal that most hikers in town came to. The library is a good place to charge devices. Two trail angels we met on the street drove us back to Paradise Valley Cafe the next morning and expected nothing in return.
Water
The longest gap between water sources on this stretch is about 9.3 miles, from Chihuahua Valley Rd (mile 127.3) to Tule Canyon Creek (mile 136.6).
Water sources on this stretch (9)
- Mile 112.6: Agua Caliente Creek, just past picnic tables
- Mile 114.8: Agua Caliente Creek
- Mile 115.6: Agua Caliente Creek, last crossing
- Mile 119.9: Lost Valley Spring, 2/10 mile N of PCT
- Mile 127.0: Water tank, 2/10 mile E of the PCT
- Mile 127.3: Chihuahua Valley Rd, unpaved
- Mile 136.6: Tule Canyon Creek
- Mile 137.3: Tule Spring, 3/10 mile E of PCT
- Mile 139.6: Guzzler cistern
San Jacinto: Idyllwild to I-10
Trail Info
Days: 12 to 15
High point: about 9,060 ft near mile 181.3
Longest water gap: about 19.3 mi
Towns: None until I-10 at Cabazon
Early start: 5:15 a.m. from Saddle Junction for the San Jacinto summit
Trail magic: Gatorade at Cabazon by the I-10 crossing
What it was like
This was the hardest stretch of the desert and it had some of its best views. Snow was on our minds and it dictated our plans. We took three days for about 40 miles: camp near Spitler Peak, summit San Jacinto, then descend Fuller Ridge. We wore microspikes through the snow. Reports said it was a foot to a foot and a half and holding well with little post-holing.
Day 12 started with two trail angels dropping us at Paradise Valley Cafe at 8:30 a.m. The climb of about 2,500 feet to Spitler Peak was one of the hardest days of the trip. We camped near 7,500 feet on the ridge behind a rock. Wind and cloud poured over it like a waterfall while the tent stayed calm. Freezing rain iced the tent overnight. In the morning we walked in the clouds. Apache Peak was one of the best views of the desert with a sea of clouds spilling over the edges.
Day 13 was about 12 miles of snow fields to Saddle Junction. It was slow and the ridges were scary at first. Focusing on our feet and using poles helped. We camped at Saddle Junction and its lookout was another of the desert's best views.
On Day 14 our alarm went off at 4 a.m. and we left Saddle Junction around 5:15 for the San Jacinto summit. The snow was iced over so shoes were enough early on. The summit is a side trip off the PCT. We reached the top around 9:30 under a clear sky with no wind. Our readout said about 10,600 feet. We could see Palm Springs, Palm Desert, and I-10 far below. By 8:30 the snow was already slushy and microspikes slip in soft snow. Next time we'd start even earlier. We stayed about 20 minutes and glissaded part of the way down. Then we walked Fuller Ridge. That's four to five miles of steep ridge in snow and it was the slowest part of the day. We covered about 12.5 miles in roughly 13 hours and camped at Fuller Ridge. That day was another of the hardest.
Day 15 dropped about 6,100 feet over 20 miles to I-10. The snow ended around mile 191 and the last 4.5 miles to the I-10 bridge crossed pure desert with no shade in the afternoon heat. A cold Gatorade left by a trail angel near the bottom helped.
Tip
Snow and cold. The desert isn't always hot in May: we had freezing rain on Apache Peak, at around 7,000 to 8,000 feet. On San Jacinto, start by 5 a.m., when the snow is iced and firm. It was slushy by 8:30. Microspikes were enough for us in mid-May after a big snow year. Conditions change by the week so check this trail weather report on YouTube before you go.
Camping
Saddle Junction at 8,114 ft was a nice camp with a lookout. At the bottom we camped next to the trail near the freeway at the I-10 "junk heap" and still marked it as a nice camp.
| Day | Camp | Mile | Elevation | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 12 | Spitler Peak | 168.5 | 7,022 ft | views |
| 13 | Saddle Junction | 179.4 | 8,114 ft | nice camp, views |
| 14 | Fuller Ridge | 190.5 | 7,749 ft | |
| 15 | I-10 "junk heap" | 210.5 | 1,605 ft | nice camp |
Towns
Cabazon is a small town on a Native American reservation with a casino and an In-N-Out. It's about nine minutes by Uber from the I-10 crossing. We spent about three hours there charging devices and eating burgers. We asked for extra-toasted fries because we could pack them out. We were back on the trail around 6 p.m. The I-10 crossing is one of the best spots for giving trail magic in the desert.
Water
The longest gap between water sources on this stretch is about 19.3 miles, from N Fork San Jacinto River (mile 186.4) to Snow Canyon Road faucet (mile 205.7).
Water sources on this stretch (11)
- Mile 158.0: Tunnel Spring, 3/10 mile W of PCT
- Mile 158.5: Live Oak Spring, 1 mile E of PCT
- Mile 163.0: Seasonal Eagle Spring, 3/10 mile S of PCT
- Mile 163.2: Cedar Spring, 1 mile N of PCT
- Mile 177.2: Tahquitz Creek
- Mile 182.1: Strawberry Cienaga
- Mile 184.1: Stone Creek
- Mile 185.6: Deer Springs, North Fork San Jacinto River
- Mile 186.1: N Fork San Jacinto River Tributary, often the best water source in this area
- Mile 186.4: N Fork San Jacinto River
- Mile 205.7: Snow Canyon Road faucet, campsites 150 feet W, PCT joins paved Snow Creek Road
San Bernardino Mountains: I-10 to Big Bear Lake
Trail Info
Days: 16 to 20
High point: about 8,740 ft near mile 248.2
Longest water gap: about 16.7 mi
Towns: Big Bear Lake (2 nights, zero)
Early start: 5:30 a.m. up Mission Creek
Trail angels: two in Big Bear Lake
What it was like
From I-10 the trail crosses Whitewater and then follows Mission Creek. That's the next big climb. On Day 16 we started at 5:30, ate an early lunch near Whitewater, and tried a siesta. We waited until 1 or 2 p.m. to start again. The Whitewater crossing is the first major river crossing in the desert. The current was strong but we found a spot where it broke and crossed about knee deep. We camped 16 miles in at the start of Mission Creek where there's fresh water.
Day 17 was the hard one: about 4,600 feet up 13 miles of Mission Creek and about 25 stream crossings back to back. Our feet were soggy and white by the end and new blisters appeared on our toes. We stopped around 2:30 at a camp at the top after 13.7 miles, ate dinner early, and went to bed.
Day 18 started at 5 a.m. We tried a new routine of hiking six miles and then taking a meal break, with an old cabin by the creek as the first stop. A forest fire burned the valley a few years earlier so there was a lot of debris. We crossed the creek about 30 times in the first three hours. The north-facing side still had patches of snow but nothing we couldn't handle. The next morning we walked a short stretch to Highway 18 and hitched into Big Bear Lake.
Tip
Mission Creek. Expect 25 to 30 stream crossings and wet feet all day. Foot cream, foot glide, and cushions for the toes and heels helped us. We also stopped every six miles and aimed for about 18 miles on a good day.
Camping
The camp at the start of Mission Creek has fresh water. Mission Springs camp sits at 7,991 ft at the top of the climb and we reached it by 2:30 p.m.
| Day | Camp | Mile | Elevation | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 16 | Mission Creek | 226.2 | 3,129 ft | |
| 17 | Mission Springs camp | 240 | 7,991 ft | |
| 18 | Outside Big Bear | 259.4 | 7,150 ft | |
| 19 | Big Bear Lake | 266.1 | 6,791 ft | town, shower, 2 nights |
| 20 | Zero in Big Bear Lake | zero |
Towns
Big Bear Lake is a hitch from Highway 18. We stayed two nights and took our second zero. Two trail angels helped us there.
Water
The longest gap between water sources on this stretch is about 16.7 miles, from Spring and trough near Mission Creek Trail Camp (mile 239.9) to Spring 1/2 mile N of Arrastre Camp (mile 256.6).
Water sources on this stretch (8)
- Mile 213.4: Mesa Wind Farm maintenance building
- Mile 220.3: Whitewater Creek
- Mile 227.2: Mission Creek Crossing
- Mile 228.0: Creek
- Mile 239.9: Spring and trough near Mission Creek Trail Camp, other spring is usually better
- Mile 256.6: Spring 1/2 mile N of Arrastre Camp
- Mile 257.8: Arrastre Creek
- Mile 258.4: Arrastre Creek
Deep Creek and Cajon Pass: Big Bear Lake to Wrightwood
Trail Info
Days: 21 to 26
High point: about 8,450 ft near mile 365.5
Longest water gap: about 17.4 mi
Towns: Wrightwood (nero)
Early start: 5:45 a.m. from the rift zone
Trail magic: a meal at Silverwood Lake and fruit, cookies, and beer at Cajon Pass
What it was like
Out of Big Bear we camped at Little Bear Springs and then followed Deep Creek down to the hot springs for a night. Silverwood Lake had trail magic at the campground. The trail crosses I-15 at Cajon Pass where we found two more rounds of trail magic. We camped in Swarthout Canyon on the rift zone.
We left the rift zone at 5:45 a.m. for the climb of about 4,300 feet to the ridge above Wrightwood and camped at Blue Ridge Campground. Two more miles took us to the road into Wrightwood for a nero.
Camping
Deep Creek Hot Springs was a night by the hot springs. Silverwood Lake was a nice camp and Swarthout Canyon had views. Blue Ridge Campground is one of the best spots for giving trail magic.
| Day | Camp | Mile | Elevation | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 21 | Little Bear Springs Camp | 285.6 | 6,581 ft | |
| 22 | Deep Creek Hot Springs | 307.9 | 3,541 ft | hot springs |
| 23 | Silverwood Lake | 329.5 | 3,466 ft | nice camp |
| 24 | Swarthout Canyon (the rift zone) | 347.2 | 3,572 ft | views |
| 25 | Blue Ridge Campground | 367.1 | 7,899 ft | |
| 26 | Wrightwood | 369.1 | 7,374 ft | town, shower, nero |
Towns
Wrightwood. We took a nero with a shower and help from a trail angel. It was the most hiker-friendly town so far with hiker discounts and free food. People kept stopping by while we sat outside the grocery store to ask whether we needed a place to stay, a ride, or food. It was our favorite trail town of the desert. The hardware store let us charge our phones.
Water
The longest gap between water sources on this stretch is about 17.4 miles, from Doble Trail Camp (mile 268.7) to Holcomb Creek (mile 286.1).
Water sources on this stretch (18)
- Mile 268.7: Doble Trail Camp, outhouse, picnic table, water, corral
- Mile 286.1: Holcomb Creek
- Mile 291.7: Creek
- Mile 292.3: Large creek
- Mile 294.0: Creek
- Mile 296.0: Piped spring
- Mile 298.6: Deep Creek, large bridge
- Mile 309.2: Small stream
- Mile 313.6: Stream
- Mile 316.2: Seasonal trail side spring
- Mile 317.4: Piped spring
- Mile 323.6: Bridge over Cedar Springs Dam outlet
- Mile 325.4: Small trail side beach on the lake
- Mile 328.4: Cleghorn Picnic Area, shade, picnic tables, water, outhouse, trash can, paved road
- Mile 333.1: Small seasonal stream
- Mile 341.3: Crowder Canyon, small seasonal creek nearby
- Mile 347.7: Bike Spring, always dry
- Mile 364.4: Guffy Spring, 1/10 mile N of the PCT. Follow use trail about 1/10 mile before campground]
San Gabriels: Wrightwood to Agua Dulce
Trail Info
Days: 27 to 31
High point: about 9,260 ft near mile 377.9
Longest water gap: about 13.7 mi
Towns: Acton (in and out, at the RV park) · Agua Dulce (in and out)
Trail magic: a meal at the North Fork Ranger Station and mochi pancakes and eggs in Agua Dulce
What it was like
The San Gabriels gave us two of the best camps of the desert and one of the hardest climbs. Out of Wrightwood we took an alternate around Mount Baden-Powell along Highway 2, the Angeles Crest Highway. It was closed to cars until the end of June because of snow and landslides so we walked it with snow over parts of the road and fallen rocks and boulders in the lanes. It felt a little apocalyptic and we saw no cars. We cowboy camped at Dawson Saddle on a viewpoint turnout where cars normally stop. We had a sunrise and a sunset to ourselves and it was one of the best views of the desert. The next day was 26.1 miles to Sulphur Springs and about 25 of them were on the closed road. It was our longest day in the San Gabriels. A group we'd met on Days 1 and 2 caught up with us here and we found a new pace together.
The climb to Messenger Flat was one of the hardest of the desert and camp sat above the clouds. At the North Fork Ranger Station a trail angel handed out breakfast burritos, takeaway sandwiches, snacks, and beer. We stayed three or four hours so that day was only about 15 miles. We cowboy camped among the rocks at Vasquez Rocks. Tilted layers of rock stick out of the hills and many TV shows and movies have been filmed there including Planet of the Apes and Star Trek. The next morning we walked through them into Agua Dulce where a trail angel made us mochi pancakes and eggs.
Watch out
Highway 2. In 2023 the Angeles Crest Highway was closed to cars until the end of June and hikers walked the alternate around Mount Baden-Powell on the road. Check current PCTA trail conditions for closures before this stretch.
Camping
Dawson Saddle and Vasquez Rocks were both cowboy camps we marked as nice with views. Messenger Flat Campground and the Sierra Pelona ridge had views too.
| Day | Camp | Mile | Elevation | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 27 | Dawson Saddle on Hwy 2 | 380.5 | 8,854 ft | cowboy camp, nice camp, views |
| 28 | Sulphur Springs Trail Camp | 406.6 | 5,187 ft | |
| 29 | Messenger Flat Campground | 430.4 | 5,883 ft | views, above the clouds |
| 30 | Vasquez Rocks | 446.8 | 2,796 ft | cowboy camp, nice camp, views |
| 31 | Sierra Pelona | 462.8 | 4,523 ft | nice camp, views |
Towns
Acton was an in and out at the RV park where the San Gabriels end. Agua Dulce is a tiny town on the trail where most hikers stop for a burrito or pizza.
Water
The longest gap between water sources on this stretch is about 13.7 miles, from Little Jimmy Spring (mile 383.7) to Headwaters of Cooper Canyon (mile 397.4).
Water sources on this stretch (13)
- Mile 370.4: Grassy Hollow Visitor Center, water spigot
- Mile 375.8: Lamel Spring, 425 ft S of the PCT
- Mile 383.7: Little Jimmy Spring
- Mile 397.4: Headwaters of Cooper Canyon
- Mile 400.7: Camp Glenwood, Boy Scout Camp, outhouse, picnic table, possible water tank
- Mile 406.8: Sulphur Spring, 1/10 mile E of PCT
- Mile 410.5: Seasonal Fiddleneck Spring
- Mile 411.0: Fountainhead Spring
- Mile 418.6: Mill Creek Fire Station, water spigot, trail register
- Mile 431.8: Spring near Moody Canyon Road
- Mile 436.1: Paved road to the North Fork Ranger Station
- Mile 444.4: Creek
- Mile 452.8: Vasquez Rocks Picnic Area
Antelope Valley: Agua Dulce to Tehachapi
Trail Info
Days: 32 to 38
High point: about 6,310 ft near mile 549.3
Longest water gap: about 20.7 mi
Towns: Hikertown (in and out) · Tehachapi (3 nights, 2 zeros)
Water: the faucet at Cottonwood Creek, by the wind turbine camp
Trail angels: three in Tehachapi, one of whom hosted us for two nights
What it was like
From the Sierra Pelona we stopped at Lake Hughes Road for a shower and camped near Horse Trail Camp. Day 34 was our longest of the desert at 27.9 miles: we stopped at Hikertown and then walked the LA Aqueduct across the Antelope Valley and cowboy camped under the wind turbines at Cottonwood Creek.
We passed mile 500 on Day 33 and had lunch just before it. Then we planned the next stretch: Hikertown the next day and then about 20 to 30 miles along the LA Aqueduct into the Mojave. Hikertown is a small refuge for hikers in the middle of the desert. The weather was cool that week. We cowboy camped again in the hills before Tehachapi and then reached the highway and stayed three nights in town.
Tip
The aqueduct stretch is long and exposed. Cottonwood Creek has a faucet by the wind turbines and it made a good place to stop for the night.
Camping
We cowboy camped three nights in a row: under the wind turbines, outside Tehachapi, and in Tehachapi. Horse Trail Camp was a nice camp with views.
| Day | Camp | Mile | Elevation | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 32 | Lake Hughes Road | 485.8 | 3,068 ft | shower |
| 33 | Near Horse Trail Camp | 507 | 5,706 ft | nice camp, views |
| 34 | Under the wind turbines, Cottonwood Creek | 534.9 | 3,093 ft | cowboy camp |
| 35 | Outside Tehachapi | 549 | 6,242 ft | cowboy camp |
| 36 | Tehachapi | 566.5 | 3,844 ft | town, shower, 3 nights |
| 37 | Zero in Tehachapi | zero | ||
| 38 | Zero in Tehachapi | zero |
Towns
Hikertown is a hiker stop at the start of the aqueduct. Tehachapi turned into three nights and two zeros. A trail angel hosted us in their backyard for two of the nights. A trail angel couple drove us back to the highway to start the next stretch.
Water
The longest gap between water sources on this stretch is about 20.7 miles, from Faucet near Cottonwood Creek bridge (mile 534.9) to Tiger Tank and shower (mile 555.6).
Water sources on this stretch (18)
- Mile 463.3: Bear Spring
- Mile 478.3: Green Valley fire station, 2/10 mile SW of PCT
- Mile 487.2: Trailside Spring
- Mile 493.8: Seasonal Creek
- Mile 496.2: Concrete Tank at Ridgetop Junction
- Mile 502.4: Red Rock Water Tank
- Mile 502.4: Guzzler behind oak shrubs
- Mile 504.6: Guzzler near Liebre Mtn Truck Trail 7N23
- Mile 508.0: Spring in canyon 2/10 mile W of Horse Camp
- Mile 510.6: Pine Canyon Creek and pond
- Mile 510.8: Creek
- Mile 511.9: Seasonal Stream
- Mile 517.5: Hikertown, hosts hikers, has water spigots, and accepts hiker resupply packages
- Mile 518.4: Open aqueduct
- Mile 534.9: Faucet near Cottonwood Creek bridge. Faucet only works when the aqueduct has water, check pctwater.com
- Mile 534.9: Faucet near Cottonwood Creek bridge. Faucet only works when the aqueduct has water, check pctwater.com
- Mile 555.6: Tiger Tank and shower. Probably dry, no water here the past few years
- Mile 558.2: Oak Creek
Tehachapi to Kennedy Meadows South
Trail Info
Days: 39 to 45
High point: about 8,020 ft near mile 687.6
Longest water gap: about 22.0 mi
Towns: Kennedy Meadows South
Trail magic: water at Walker Pass and photos from a photographer at Kennedy Meadows South
What it was like
The last stretch of the desert has long days and big views. As we walked away from the highway out of Tehachapi a brush fire started right beside it. It was close enough to see the flames. We hoped it was a controlled burn. We camped at Golden Oaks Spring. Then we put in 23.8 miles to Landers Creek and another long day to Bird Spring Pass.
The walk into Walker Pass was one of the best views of the desert and a trail angel had water waiting there. The climb out had views again and we camped near Owens Peak. A 24.1-mile day left us five miles short of Kennedy Meadows South and we walked in the next morning. It was the end of the desert and the door to the Sierra. On the last day we saw our first glimpses of the Sierra Nevada hidden in clouds.
Camping
Bird Spring Pass, Walker Pass, and Owens Peak were all camps with views.
| Day | Camp | Mile | Elevation | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 39 | Golden Oaks Spring | 583.3 | 5,488 ft | |
| 40 | Landers Creek | 607.1 | 6,412 ft | |
| 41 | Bird Spring Pass | 630.8 | 5,362 ft | views |
| 42 | Walker Pass | 651.3 | 5,055 ft | views |
| 43 | Owens Peak | 672.8 | 6,753 ft | views |
| 44 | Outside Kennedy Meadows South | 696.9 | 5,882 ft | |
| 45 | Kennedy Meadows South | 702.2 | 6,006 ft | town, shower |
Towns
Kennedy Meadows South is where the desert ends. We picked up our resupply package there and it started to rain while we sorted it. Our flat spot sat on a slight incline so we dug a small moat around the tent and moved the food inside. We took a zero there. At about 700 miles we also had new shoes sent. They were nearly identical pairs with fresh tread.
Water
The longest gap between water sources on this stretch is about 22.0 miles, from Golden Oaks Spring (mile 583.3) to Cottonwood Creek (mile 605.3).
Water sources on this stretch (17)
- Mile 583.3: Golden Oaks Spring, paved road nearby
- Mile 605.3: Cottonwood Creek
- Mile 606.9: Concrete dam and spring
- Mile 608.3: Landers Creek, often dry
- Mile 609.2: Landers Meadow drainage at 1st Piute Mountain Road crossing
- Mile 617.1: Kelso Valley Road, paved N of PCT, unpaved S of PCT
- Mile 639.0: Yellow Jacket Spring, 7/10 mile NW of PCT
- Mile 645.0: McIvers Spring, 2/10 mile E of PCT
- Mile 664.3: Stream past a dirt road
- Mile 664.7: Joshua Tree Spring
- Mile 669.5: Spanish Needle Creek, first crossing
- Mile 670.2: Another crossing of Spanish Needle Creek
- Mile 670.9: Spanish Needle Creek, forth crossing
- Mile 681.3: Chimney Creek, seasonal spring nearby
- Mile 683.6: Fox Mill Spring and trough
- Mile 693.7: Manter Creek, 1st Creek in Rockhouse Basin
- Mile 697.9: South Fork Kern River
Reflections
We took a zero at Kennedy Meadows South in mid-June. A few weeks earlier we had already decided to skip the Sierra because 2023 was a high snow year. We took two buses and rides from trail angels to Mammoth for two nights. Then we took a bus to Reno and a ride from there to Susanville. A trail angel in Chester hosted us before we rejoined the trail. A group we met told us they had almost called for rescue in the Sierra after running out of food in a blizzard. That confirmed the decision. The next section on the trail is the Sierra and I came back for it in 2024. In 2023 the story continues in Northern California.
The desert by the numbers
- Wildlife: 9 rattlesnakes and 3 lookalikes, 7 garter snakes, 8 rabbits, 9 lizards, 2 mountain mice, and 99 beetles crossing the trail
- Longest days: 27.9 miles along the LA Aqueduct, 26.1 to Sulphur Springs, 24.2 to Warner Springs, and 24.1 to outside Kennedy Meadows South
- Early starts: 5:15 a.m. for San Jacinto, 5:30 up Mission Creek, 5:45 out of the rift zone
- Also: 4 cowboy camps, 3 trail maintenance crews, 9 blisters
What I'd tell someone starting at Campo
- Plan camps around water. A short first day can turn into a long one if there's no water where you meant to stop.
- Rest through the midday heat. Most hikers took an hour or two in the middle of the day. We didn't on Day 1 and felt it.
- Watch the trail where it's overgrown. Both of our Day 1 rattlesnakes were where brush crowded the path.
- Keep clear of poodle-dog bush. It blisters skin and grows right along the trail.
- Carry layers. May brought freezing rain on San Jacinto and the nights were cold all through the desert.
- Carry enough capacity for 4 to 5 liters. The long carries need it even if you don't fill up every time.
- Start the big climbs early. We left at 5:15 a.m. for San Jacinto and the snow was slushy by 8:30.
- Cut weight in the first two weeks. You'll know by then what you don't use. Send it home or leave it in a hiker box.
- Download the water report in town. Desert sources change week to week.
Thanks for reading. If you have questions about the desert section get in touch or find me on Instagram: @andrewtpham.
Happy trails!